The arrival of Shein is pushing brands to leave BHV
In an honest world where grandiose humanistic announcements did not disguise other reasons/intentions/marketing boosts, Mr Garrison would say, ‘Fast fashion is baaaad, M’kay.’ And we would not see any sarcasm in that. Yes, it’s bad. But isn’t the entire fashion game full of contradictions?
On 1st of October 2025, in the midst of Paris Fashion Week, an announcement sent shockwaves through the luxury world: the SGM group, owner of BHV and Galeries Lafayette, confirmed the upcoming opening of Shein corners in its department stores.
This decision immediately sparked heated controversy. The Chinese fast-fashion giant, regularly accused of unethical environmental and social practices, deeply divides the sector. While Shein appeals with its unbeatable prices and commercial power, its production methods continue to be denounced by numerous NGOs, which point to the exploitation of workers and the colossal ecological impact of its ephemeral collections.
In response to this announcement, several long-standing partner brands of BHV decided to terminate their contracts as a sign of disagreement. Among them were Le Slip Français, Swarovski and American Vintage. Officially, these terminations were justified by BHV’s accumulated unpaid debts, estimated at several million euros. But for some, this decision also reflects a deeper unease with the group’s strategic direction.
On 10th of October, the launch day of the “BHV Week” promotional campaign, more than 150 employees walked off the job to express their dissatisfaction. It was a symbolic strike, but one that revealed the growing gap between the logic of immediate profitability and the values that many players in the sector claim to uphold.
One reality remains difficult to ignore: responsible consumption is a privilege. In a context of persistent inflation, many households cannot afford to turn their backs on fast fashion.
